As much as I like HartCo's answer, I also have to disagree with it.
To go off what I mentioned in the various comments I've made, the route I'd pay off the auto loan first, then work on the student loans.
If you wreck the car, you'll still be paying for what the insurance doesn't cover as well as having to borrow for another car. If you pay off the car first, you get the insurance money to roll into the next car. Also, having a car loan affects your credit history more substantially than student loans, which can make a difference if you go to buy a house.
Also, of the amount you are paying on the auto loan, only a small part goes towards the original loan, while the rest goes towards interest. If you have a decent loan, the amount you overpay per month on the car loan will go to the principal (original loan) rather than interest. This cuts your loan down much faster and you'll have to pay less interest on it, continuing to increase the amount per month you pay back on the principal.
Let's take a step back for a moment and do some really raw numbers. If you don't pay anything on the $24,500 loan at 5.99% for 10 years, that will have grown to over $43,000.
If you compare that to the $9,000 of UnSub loans at 6.55% for 10 years, that's around $17,000 for the loans. That total is less than just the interest growth on the auto loan, even though it has a (marginally) lower interest rate.
Normally, I go for the snowball effect, which starts a person paying things off by the smallest loan amount, but I consider student loans an exception. If you have any other debt, student loans need to come 2nd to last and right before a mortgage. Credit card debt and personal loans come first, then auto loans. You've already taken care of the CC debt, so you've already taken care of that first step.
Along with paying off the credit cards, you need to not use them except for emergencies. Have a cash safety net in the bank of at least $1000. The more you have, the less likely you'll have to use credit and the less likely you'll have to pay interest.
Ok, back to next steps. Once you have the car paid off, start with the smallest student loan. It doesn't matter if it's UnSub or not. Use half the money you "were" paying for the car to pay add to what you pay for that loan. Use the other half of the car payment to save up for your next car. This will save you lots of interest later, as not only having a significant down payment can get you better terms on a loan, you might be able to get a car without a loan by, paying for it outright.
FYI: Having the car savings and your safety net saving can also keep you out of financial trouble when the car needs repairs.
Once you start paying off the student loans, every time you pay off a loan, roll that entire amount into paying off the next loan. This is why it's called the snowball effect. The more you roll into the next loan payments, the faster you pay it off.
This is how I paid off my credit cards, previous cars, private loans, and my own student loans. I took part of Dave Ramsey's plan and meshed it with what I learned in the book America's Cheapest Family. I'm not in any way affiliated with Dave or the book, I'm just another happy customer. (Any referral link is added by SE/SO, as has been done on other posts of mine.) One caveat I added to Dave's method is that if you have loans of similar amount, but different interest rates, pay the higher interest rate off. The other caveat is that if you have a loans of similar amount and a much higher monthly payment, pay the higher monthly rate one off first. Both of these caveats will save you time and money.
One thing I didn't mention is retirement savings. Unless you can't afford your bills by doing so, you should be putting in as much as your employer matches on your 401K, etc. Employer matches are free money and the longer you have that retirement money, the more it pays off. This is where interest rates work for you, instead of against.
All of that said, life is going to change. You need to be able to make changes to your plan when it does. The "America's Cheapest Family" book goes into how to do that in a lot of depth, as well as how to pay off and stay out of debt. You don't need to "know everything now", as that "everything" will change. Just learn as you go and make the best guesses you can.
As contested as my answer appears to be, I'm going to have to add things that I thought might be obvious, not to mention redundant from the references I've mentioned. So here we go:
Student loans are different than any other loan, in that they are regulated differently than any other loan type in the USA. They can't repossess your education, they can't bully you into not paying another bill to pay them, and they do have various deferments, loan repayment recalculations, payment reductions, loan forgiveness, and other ways to ease your monthly burden. They can still garnish your bank accounts, your paycheck, and even your tax refund, but these are their very last options, not their first as with other lines of credit. (Only government loans can go after your tax refund or add to your tax payment to make you current with your loans.)
Using a debit calculator (https://www.creditkarma.com/calculators/debt_repayment/ included for ease of access, not because I'm affiliated with them as anything other than as a customer), you can easily calculate the length of the loans as well as how much interest you'll pay.
Focusing on paying off the highest risk loan first, which in this case is the auto loan, you'll be saving a lot of interest. Continuing to pay at the minimum will take 85 months and cost $5,612 in interest. Continuing to pay your UnSub loans at the minimums will take 37 months and cost less than $1000 in interest.
Higher risk is due to factors outside of a strict mathematical valuation of the numbers. The auto loan, as mentioned previously, is subject to accidents, repossession, potential car repairs, and more. Student loans are much lower risk, due to reasons previously mentioned. Student loans aren't going to disappear during a bankruptcy where a auto loan could (but isn't certain), but your finances have to take such a massive downturn to even think of bankruptcy that I rarely bother to consider it a factor, especially when there's no current indication it's eminent. I find that people who focus their advice solely on bankruptcy decisions are those who are most likely to find themselves filing for it.
A higher interest rate doesn't automatically mean you'll pay more in interest. As I calculated earlier, the $24.5k at 5.99% will cost your more in interest than $9k at 6.55% over the life of the loans. Also, by the time you get done paying off the auto loan, even by increasing your payments, the student loans will have all been paid for naturally, assuming a standard 3% monthly payment rate.
Spreading extra money to all your loans will help, but focusing the increase on a single loan drastically affects the repayment of that one loan, since that extra is being paid towards the principal, instead of the interest. By hitting harder on the principal, that means your interest payment (not rate) goes down on subsequent payments. An old "rule of thumb" to consider from the mortgage people is that by paying a single months payment extra per year shaves off years of payments. This works for more than just mortgages, of course.
Instead of living paycheck to paycheck, as one comment suggested I was advocating, I previously suggested having that cash safety net as well as saving money in general. This prevents living paycheck to paycheck.
I advocate the "snowball effect" as a psychological way to "use your weakness as your strength". Most people don't have the will or attention span to take on large projects that don't have obvious positive feedback, such as paying off a large loan. Paying off the smallest debt first gets you a "quick win" as well as one fewer debtor that can come ringing your phone or knocking on your door if your finances go drastically wrong. Because of the different risk factors of the different loan types, I've modified the snowball effect plan to account for it.
Using the snowball effect, or my modified version of it, isn't necessarily the most mathematically best use of your money to pay off the loans, however the difference between the "mathematically best" and the snowball effect is generally counted in months, not years. The "mathematically best" has psychological problems, dealing with the aforementioned willpower and attention span of the person involved. A person with high willpower and laser focus can use the mathematically best approach, but is also the least likely type of person to get into the type of situation where they are drowning in debt.